Darting Pinot Blanc, Germany

2021 - It shows the ur-aroma of the variety, the sort of paradigm fragrance that begs you to teach a class with it. Being insanely attractive also doesn't hurt. (The wine, not the instructor.) It's one of those wines that smells so good you almost can't bear to drink it. Do it anyway. You'll be rewarded handsomely. The basic pointedness of '20 stands in delicious counterpoint to the scallopy umami of the variety, giving you a wine that's both salty and with that lump-crab-meat sweetness of the variety at its simple best.--Terry Theise